No problems with either cold or hot starts. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. I have quadruple checked my wiring and am certain it's correct. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. Hi. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. 1. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. We do that but most places don't. The tps will not auto reset to zero. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. We offer some tips to help with that. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. I had this same exact issue. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. Sorry I didn't buy from you but I didn't know you had sold them. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. That is the only way to fly. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. Not that I noticed. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. What should I be looking at to calm this down? I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. Or is there something else I should installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. First thing I would check mean that the IAC is causing it. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. (Do this while you are cranking.) If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. Learning to install these is great--you're about to embark on the next great adventure of advanced troubleshooting. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) If you have an installation or start-up issue that is nagging you then please use the comments section to reply and we will gladly provide more information that we hope will be useful to you. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. If you use your handheld to go here: I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. The last pic is with the car in Drive. Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. such high fuel pressure. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? Thanks again for your insights! Holley Sniper Iac Delete The latest was changing the power brake booster.Today I drove it to work and no issues at all. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. Thanks for the info Chris. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Why is this? Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! That's what you're seeing. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. Hey Chris! I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. check out the. when things aren't working and this provides just that. Is this normal ? If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. shut truck off. (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Am I missing something. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. Shut off car/restart and it's back to idle at This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. It's called tuning. I recently install a sniper efi. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. When you have the issue you should disconnect all hoses and plug the ports on the Sniper. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. Throttle body mounted ECU - no extra boxes to mount. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Always had to set idle above 950. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. Supports up to 650hp with Four 100 Lb/Hr Injectors! The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. Cycled the ignition off. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. Thanks for any help. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Its on a big block Mopar with stock electronic ignition . Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. I will let you know what the results are. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. $107.95. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. So the issue Im having is low idle. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. MSD pro billet and 6AL box The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. I think you'll be all set! As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. Car was running great initially. The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. It didnt do this with the carb on it. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. Give us a hand! One of the best Ive seen so far. Im thinking a faulty TPS. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. You are looking in the right area but I would probably not change the ROC blanking. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. Holley have given a new unit. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? A simple remove & clean will remedy this . A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at The headache is the Acceleration Enrichment. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. At idle my IAC is 3-4, AFR around 13-14, TPS is 0, timing 15-17. Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. Several good bits here. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. Without it you are working in the dark. I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. I think that your timing is too retarded. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). TPS 0. That will at least tell you something. Or ?I have put a fuel pressure gauge right at the inlet of the sniper and it is reading 60-64 psi. The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. Please help. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). Your AFR is pegged lean. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. What would cause the idle to faulter like that? The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. Enjoy your Sniper! The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. Or, at least, it should. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. All times are GMT-6. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. Though they both are indications of the amount of opening through the throttle body, the TPS is the throttle opening percentage and the IAC number tells us how far the IAC stepper motor is opening the bypass air circuit.If I understand you correctly you are saying that the TPS reads somewhat normally (traveling from 9% to 100% or so) but that when you cycle the key it once again starts at 9%. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. What could be the cause? We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you!
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