This is why many stranded colorwork knitters prefer to use woolen-spun yarns; because of their bloom, different colors end up blending together at the edges for a painterly effect. googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('interstitial-ad');}); Save patterns, share updates, and connect with your community. Check out our worsted spun wool selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Thank you! From that basis it's pretty much impossible to create a woolen yarn, which relies on trapping hairs perpendicular to the direction of the yarn Perhaps youve got a fiber allergy and need to switch to a yarn that wont irritate your skin. The dead giveaway of the woolen-ness of Empire is the blip of fiber sticking out. As an example, aran weight worsted spun wool is going to be heavier than aran weight woolen spun wool, so there will be fewer yards per 100 grams of the worsted spun wool . January 2016 Combed top can be used to make yarns for items that are still going to be warm, like a hat, it just will not have the insulating ability of a yarn spun woolen, but will be stronger than a woolen spun yarn. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. Brilliant exposition, Katie! I'm glad it was helpful to you! The woolen yarn fabrics do not hold the crease well and are less durable than worsted yarns. 20Nm/1 100% Merino Worsted Wool Yarn with Single Anti-shrink for Knitting and Weaving.yarn Patterns: raw white/yarn dyed/top dyed Styles: worsted/woolen Technics: ring spun Use: knitting, weaving Feature: single anti-shrink Evenness: USTER Different twists for weaving and knitting Yarn count: 20Nm/1 Wool top:24 micron Used for sock Color: solid color, suitable for all colors MOQ of sample . Thanks. 4/9. Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. Today, Im talking about the last one. Thanks for the good explanation. An extreme example is angora or mohair. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. Weaving. Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. You have made it so clear to me. Great explanation, i aways spin long draw and card my alpaca, tearing long strips off of the batt, i would be interested in working out what type my yarn is. Put up refers to what sort of shape/size bundle the yarn is in. When prepared in a worsted-style, the fibers also tend to spin up more tightly, resulting in greater tensile strength and resistance to abrasion. Worsted Weight: 250 Yards / 100 Grams. Absolutely excellent article and the illustrations are superb and helpful. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. Semi-worsted at a similar wpi got me 83 yds/1.1 oz. Theyre great for items that wont get a ton of friction while youre wearing them and that you wear against sensitive skinthings like hats and cowls. The difference between worsted-spun and woolen-spun yarns lies in how the fiber is handled before the actual spinning. Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. There are all sorts of reasons you might want to use a yarn thats different from what the designer recommends. The difference between woolen and the worsted yarn is that woolen yarn is spun by carding fibers. This has just lit a light bulb in my head. Copyright 2014-2023. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. God Bless. And I really appreciate the swatches. It will help a lot in future project planning. It does however produce a lot of waste fibres (though those can still be carded for a more textured yarn). Thanks for the clear and concise approach I get it now! and now the skies are clear, the the clouds have drifted away, and the sun is shining! As with our woolen-spun yarns, fiber prepared for worsted-spun yarn is first scoured and then carded. Yarn stashes are nice, but at some point, I become a yarn collector instead of a knitter if I never get projects done due to errors in purchases. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. 2.22 yds UK Sherry 100% Spun Silk Fabric Luxury Suiting 9 oz Apricot 80" BTP . Fiber and drafting traits together make yarn that is more woolen or worsted. These cookies do not store any personal information. December 2016 The sweater turned out too big and too heavy, so it drooped until it hung from my shoulders like a circular tablecloth with a hole in the middle. Thats especially true if youre knitting a small, close-fitting garment like a sock or mitt. (See my Jamieson & Smith Jumper Weight vs a worsted crepe swatch.) This exciting variety can be attributed to similarly multiple factors such as individual spinning style and preference, fleece and fiber characteristics, or even environmental considerations like humidity levels. One other point about worsted vs. semi-worsted. Wool is readied by washing (lanolin is the by-product), carding, sometimes combing, then spinning. Its more precise than the yarns weight category of fingering, DK, bulky, etc. The rub rollernext turns the sliver into roving and adds a false twist. Thank you so much for sharing. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. February 2015 Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. I am going to print this and use it, because this made me feel empowered by actual knowledge - my yarn purchases may take a bit longer as I review all of the yarns characteristics, but I have a much better sense of what I am doing! Worsted-spun yarns, on the other hand, are smoother and knit up into fabrics with greater drape and stitch definition. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. November 2018 As a last resort, if the designer has published their contact information, consider reaching out to them if you have questions about yarn substitution. Worsted wools are better at keeping out the wind and rain, but woolen wools are warmer, because they are full of air which acts as insulation. This is an excellent article and explanation. They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. Woolen yarns are made of carded yarns and are fuzzy and bulky. September 2021 Look at the picture that accompanies this section. But just to make things tricky, it's entirely possible for a yarn to be both woollen and worsted, generally when a previously spun woollen yarn is re-spun using the worsted technique, creating a so-called semi-woollen or semi-worsted yarn. To measure WPI, take out a ruler and an item of uniform thickness that you can wrap your yarn around. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Holland & Sherry98% SUPER 100'S WORSTED 2% LYCRA 2.46 YDS X 62" 159648 at the best online prices at eBay! Wonderful study! Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet. Taking the spinning seminar from Cecilia Quinn I learned the difference between worsted and woolen is in the way the fibers were treated and spun. As a very new spinner (wheel) I found this article so informative and easy to understand. Each of those packages generally indicates two key details: how many yards or meters are in the unit of yarn, and how much that unit of yarn weighs. The primary reason for this is that the wool yarn normally used for these fabrics was produced using a special "worsted" spinning technique that better aligns the fibers. January 2023 Yours has been my favorite series to date Im learning so much and feel like I can make better choices! NOW I KNOW. 5 sts / inch on size US 7. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Using the ruler, measure how many times the yarn wraps around the item in the span of one inch. Now I can shop for yarn with a little more knowledge. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". March 2014 Woolen spinning also works best on wool with shorter staple lengths, such that if you pull on the yarn from several inches away, the yarn can indeed break. September 2013 Thank you, youre a great explainer. Knit using the same needles and in the same style that youll be knitting the garment (i.e., flat or in the round). Safe home and already knitting a scarf . Eg: tweed. Drop me a line any time. They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. Woolen yarn is dense and is often made from the shorter strands of a sheep's fleece. You explained it so well. Then repeat the gauge swatching process. Interesting point I would like to know that too! Multiply that over the many inches of a knitted item, and well, you can see how subbing in a yarn with a WPI of 12 for a yarn with a WPI of 18 could be a bit of an issue. It also means woolen-spun yarns are warmer than their worsted counterparts as these air pockets help hold body heat. Because of the density, a typical worsted yarn is thinner than a typical woolen yarn of the same ypp. August 2014 Learn how your comment data is processed. They also tend to have less memory. I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. I learned about yarn substitution the hard way. Appreciate the double check. Thank you for this article. What Ply is Worsted Weight Yarn? If the ratios are close, youre more likely to have a good match for substitution. When I first started knitting, I bought a Debbie Bliss magazine that had this adorable, lightweight top for summer. Use top to spin semi worsted. Worsted-style spinning, unlike woolen-style, does not allow twist to enter the fiber during drafting. Worsted yarns are spun from fibers that have been combed; they are lightweight; these yarns are used for knitting. Woolen yarns are the ones you might find bits of hay in. Because woolen-spun yarns retain lots of air pockets during the production process, they knit up into very insulating and warm garments. September 2018 Examples of Woolen Spun:Cascade Eco+ Merino DKCascade BFL, Examples of Worsted Spun (not a complete list):Malabrgio RiosCascade 220 Superwash. February 2018 Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. December 2017 I actually own a mini mill that creates semi-worsted yarns. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. November 2017 Heres what woolen and worsted mean to your knitted sweaters and accessories. Try yarnsub.com or ask LYS staff. Great article! Woolen yarns feel lighter, can feel textured and have a halo, and if the fibers like to be hairy or fuzzy, they will be flying their fuzzy freak flag. Its an old method too and goes well with fiber that has been prepared for spinning by hand. I wonder if it is related to the tendancy of woollen-spuns to bloom? www.brooklyntweed.com, Content: 100% Clun Forest wool Put-Up: 185yd [169 m]/3.8 oz [107 g] Construction: 3-ply Care: Handwash with low agitation; dry flat Recommended Gauge: 18 sts = 4 (10 cm) on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles, Solitude Wool hand-picks its fleece from small U.S. farms and then has yarn spun at different mills around the country. All Rights Reserved. Spinning Last fall when I traveled to the Taos Wool Festival, I discovered a remarkable cormo yarn from Elsa Wool Company. You can write a comment on the yarns Ravelry page suggesting that drafting info be added. January 2022 July 2016 When you touch worsted yarn, it tends to feel heavier and very even, and it will be shiny if the fibers in the yarn are inclined that way. Now, I finally understand what it really means and how it will impact my future knitting! Hours: Mon-Fri from 9am-4pm MT Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. She wrote the book Yarnitecture: A Knitters Guide to Spinning: Building Exactly the Yarn You Want so she could use all of the fiber words. This is because the combed fibers, lacking air pockets, can more readily spin up into a compact, dense, and sturdy yarn. Yarn and fiber folks have an extensive vocabulary for many things, but we are really stuck on the word worsted. You might be able to get a good sense for what the project would look like in your chosen yarn or get inspiration for another yarn to use. January 2021 The photos were such a vivid illustration of the difference between these two types of drafting and their results for your knitting. Woollen yarns are used for flannel, tweed, melton, knitwear and felt. Congratulations on shedding light on these two styles of spinning that are so confusing for many spinners. October 2015 The yarn is less hairy than worsted yarns. Your explanation is great, and reaffirms my decision to purchase your Yarnitecture book awhile back. Thank you! When you look at yarns, hunting for worsted vs. woolen, some are obvious from across the yarn shop. Now that you know about how woolen and worsted yarns behave in knitted fabric, youll be able to choose the perfect pattern to complement your new yarn love. A fluffy woolen wool blanket 2.83 yds Holland Sherry WOOL Fabric Luxury worsted Suiting 10 oz Plaid 102" BTP. December 2013 The Vs of stockinette are sharp, the bumps of moss are plump and clear and the holes in the lace are wide open. (using carded fibers). Want to try out some wonderful wool yarns? One method is not better or worse than the other - just different. Thank you!!! SpoinnersAdvent Thanks. Very good, educational description. I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. It is named after the small English village of Worstead, in the county of Norfolk and this village was a center for manufacturing in the twelfth century. Combing was traditionally done on large heavy combs, and was done by men. Id assumed it was me, but now I wonder if its my yarn? A little history on worsted wool. Thank you Jagger Spun for the information! No twist enters the fiber by itself. But it made a noticeable difference to the feel of the swatch in my hand. Required fields are marked *. That is woolen drafting. In the pictures, the woollen spun samples all seem bigger that the worsted spun. I have saved this post as I will go over it again and again. I sort of knew all of this but your explanation and illustrations pulled my knowledge all together. Woolen yarns are spun with the fibers going every which way. Raw, dirty & weedy alpaca is what I'm practicing this woolen technique I am learning, from rolags. For example, if they just list an email address for pattern inquiries, dont message them on every social media platform where you can find them, too. Because our yarns are washed in the hand-dying process some blooming has already occurred. In side-by-side comparison of worsted and woolen yarns with the same fiber and yarn structure, the worsted yarn is more durable, less warm, and heavier than a woolen yarn. This was the only blog with a long windup that was not only worth the read but also genuinely funny rather than trying too hard. 28 minutes. Annie. June 2022 Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. April 2014 This video is a brief overview of some different spinning techniques I've learned to spin worsted or woolen yarn and how that affects the outcome of your yar. This is the type of information that makes a knitter more knowledgable about our purchases. July 2018 If either of these fibers is in your yarn, no matter how worsted and smooth it is spunit will become a fuzzy yarn. So what difference does it make, why bother to think about spinning technique and processing type before spinning? Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. When this "worsted spun" yarn is woven it produces fabric with these qualities unlike the more common woolen-spun wool yarns available to handweavers. If youre making socks or colorwork, though, or working on a project that requires clear stitch definition, you should pay extra attention to how your yarn is spun. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. This article is so well written and I love how you explain how the type of yarn will effect the finished product. In fact, the answer may not even be the same every time. Block it the same way you plan to block the finished knit item, and set it somewhere safe to dry. Combed worsted yarn is superior to carded woolen yarn in strength. In the videos below, I'm using hand carded alpaca. September 2019 There are two yarns, one brown and one light green. Just like cotton worsted is not always better than woolen. You've got the woolen spun vs worsted spun reversed. The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. July 2021 Usually with terms like Youll see two different yarns, one pale pink and one a creamy color. Both types require different fiber preparation on spinning techniques. This is a fantastic article and helped me to understand in the ins and outs so clearly however, even after refreshing Im getting broken links for all the in article photos what happened? . May 2018 the fiber(s) used. You won't want to put . Worsted yarns contrast with woollen yarns, which are carded rather than combed and fuzzier than worsted yarns. August 2015 Miss Babs has an orderly line. Worsted yarn, made in the USA. Be sure to use the stitch indicated in the pattern when it tells you how gauge was measured. The squeeze of drafting a yarn worsted brings fibers closer, for greater depth of color, and the smoothness of the surface reflects light, intensifying the color and shine. One of the most basic attributes of a yarn is woolen or worsted spun. April 2020 What you do need is to know what youre doing if you plan to change things up. The difference between these two is not as clear at first glance. > >, Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift, Reasons to Take Your WIP to a Sporting Event, A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. Since it doesn't have air, it does not tend to be "fuzzy". You are however spinning long draw, which is a more woolen type of draft and will be trapping more air in the yarn. As modern spinners we can now get some much smaller and lighter combs, but combing is still a real physical workout. November 2014 Well, the differences between woolens and worsted begin at the carding stage. Although there is broad agreement about the extremes of woolen and worsted spinning, no firm consensus exists on what precisely defines the vast middle. Worsted spun yarns are used in preparation of suits, dresses, crepes. July 2020 After being spun into yarn, our worsted-spun yarns are dyed in the skein. Worsted wools are slick when woven, woolen wools are knitted, crocheted, or woven into softer, fluffier fabric, or fulled fabric. A beautifully written, lucid and illuminating lesson, and several fascinating aspects to the distinctions. This leaves both short and long fibers which are at different angles. https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. If you substitute with a yarn that is drastically thicker or thinner than the recommended yarn, you wont be able to achieve the right gauge. You absolutely do not have to use the same yarn recommended by the designer for a pattern. January 2014 Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Because there is less air trapped in the spun fibers, the resulting yarn is dense, smooth and resistant to abrasion. Woollen yarns (upper) have a softer, more diffuse look whereas worsted yarns (lower) make very distinct stitch patterns. However, though the staple length of the wool is short the yarn is strong over the length of a single knit or purl stitch, so the fabric worked in these yarns will be cohesive and strong. The simple, pure honesty of her yarns, paired with a buttery softness and delicate texture, enchanted me. When spinning the fiber the long draw or medium draw technique is used to allow the fiber to wrap upon itself while . It isn't just a question of being one or the other though, there is a continuum of spinning structures with true worsted on one end, true woolen on the far opposite and lots of semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns in between. The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. Now I know. Maybe you have moral or ethical concerns about the recommended yarn company, or maybe you just dont like the recommended yarn, or maybe youve got another yarn you really like that youd rather use instead. October 2021 I feel like I can make better yarn/pattern matches and explain these variables to others who want me to knit for them and their only concern is color. I choose to support local and indie yarners and dont mind spending big $$ on yarn if I understand it will fit the intended project. As for me, well, I love hearing from people who are working on my patterns and do my best to respond to messages quickly. According to Clara Parkess The Knitters Book of Yarn, spinning or adding twist to the fiber while it is in a jumbled state (in other words, in a woolen-preparation) is one key aspect of woolen-spun yarns. Thank you for there explanation. Many commercial yarns are spun in this way, particularly sock yarns. . Well it's all a matter of different fibre preparations, and different spinning techniques. And now for the tricky, but crucial, part of yarn substitution: making sure you hit gauge. I guess I thought it referred to the ply, like 4-ply. April 2017 When it comes to choosing between a woolen-spun yarn and a worsted-spun yarn, there really is no right or wrong answer. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. You'll also want to identify whether the suggested yarn in the pattern is woolen spun or worsted spun. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. Between those extremes, you can make infinite yarn combining elements from along the woolen/worsted continuum. Worsted-spun knitted fabrics are super-soft, incredibly versatile knits that are used for baby clothes, underwear, t-shirts and sportswear, leggings, dresses and other light-weight knitwear. It does not store any personal data. December 2015 January 2020 Airy and soft, but fragile (because of the shorter staple and looser twist?). Worsted is about both how you spin and how you (or your supplier) prep. This is because the fibers (compressed together in all directions, without combing) adhere more strongly to each other, This is a lightweight fabric, and, especially when knitted using Fair Isle technique, will long outlast a worsted spun garment. May 2014 If you compare those to the recommended yarns details, youll have a better sense of whether the substitution will work. Combing the jumbled fibers aligns them in a parallel fashion and also removes shorter fibers for uniform length. August 2018 Woolen and Worsted yarns. A light bulb has definitely gone on for me. January 2017 Does this happen with all yarns? Module 1 Review of the woollen and worsted production systems re-caps on the differences between worsted versus woollen yarn production, the early operations prior to spinning and their aims. So good! www.harrisville.com, Content: 100% pure wool Put-Up: 215 yd [196 m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash with mild soap in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 17 sts = 4 (10cm) on size 8 (5 mm) needles, Our mill has been in production on the same location for 158 years, so we do have some history in producing woolen-spun yarn, says John Little of Briggs & Little Woolen Mills. That little strand of silk-mohair yarn is important, because the mohair fibers catch on each other and lend stability to the fabric. Really, it's totally personal preference. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". That pushes us in to the worsted end of the spectrum. They are also warmer because of the airiness. They are also warmer because of the airiness. ). New spinning innovations have produced wind and waterproof wool fabrics. January 2015 May 2022 The worsted spinning method creates yarns that are smooth and durable, with superior stitch definition. Worsted is smooth (using combed fibers), while woolen is more rustic. Domestic wool combed top from Poppy Flower Fibers, 4 oz. The fibers in a worsted spun yarn are combed to be parallel and uniform before spinning whereas the fiber for woolen-spun yarns are more casually arranged. We consider it one of the finest worsted weight yarns out there. October 2019 This was the clearest explanation regarding the what, why, and how of woolen vs. worsted spun I have come across. The main differences between woolen and worsted spinning are the direction that the fibers are running in the yarn and the compactness of the resulting yarn. Within woollen preparation the fibre is spun straight . In relation to the thinner 1ply yarns Woollen Spun has a crisper feel, whereas the Worsted Spun has more drape and softness. To produce our heathered colors, the scoured fleece is then dyed in a range of intensely saturated base solids, which are then blended together during the spinning process using percentages of the base colors unique to each colorway. Its totally fine. June 2016 Yarns with multiple strands of fiber plied together are very sturdy. Check out our worsted woolen spun yarn selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Youve just figured out your yarns WPI. Classically speaking there are 2 types of yarn. As you might have guessed, most worsted-spun yarns are not ideal for felting (fibers which are all perfectly aligned are difficult to felt! The smoothness of the yarn means that the stitches knit from them sing proudly and have excellent definition, while the compactness of the yarn contributes to fabrics with greater drape. Woolen yarns are spun with the fibers going every which way. But once knitted and blocked, a further bloom will take place, and the resulting fabric will be light and lush; cozy and insulating. Natural fibers will be easier to block than acrylics (which can be killed with steam, but otherwise just are what they are). When a yarn is spun from a pile of fibers into a string, its turned a little bit as its stretched out to make a tubular shape. This means, how many individual strands were used to form the thread. Spin: Worsted or Woolen How a yarn is spun affects a yarn's weight and crimp. Spun worsted style, 2 ply, ~12 wpi, 183 yds/4 oz. At Brooklyn Tweed, we employtwo basic spinning methods that occupy either end of this broad spectrum of possibility: woolen-spinning and worsted-spinning. My thanks also. This will save me a lot of headache as well as trial and error. Not every woolen-spun yarn has a rougher surface, and not every worsted yarn is smooth. Its not just the beautiful dyeing. AC Business Ventures LLC, DBA Nitro Knitters. Woolen yarns are good for products like tweeds, while worsted yarns are best for smooth fine gaberdines. Choose from twenty rich rustic heathers and support the Hydropower Project with your purchase. You cracked the egg for me.I want to read more of your writing. WPI is a way to measure the thickness of yarn. November 2013 from Brown Sheep Company. When worsted fiber is spun together after being combed, its yarn is strong and smooth. Great article, thank you for this very detailed account , I learned so much !
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